The Elite Avanti was introduced last summer as Elite’s new mid-range option for direct drive trainers. Unlike some of their competitors, Elite went all-in on specs on this one. They didn’t hold back: Adding WiFi, Zwift high-speed Race Mode, 18% simulated grade, and even slightly squishy feet for a tiny bit of lateral sway. In short, they’ve largely packed features found on high-end trainers into a mid-range price point.
But arguably more important than all of that: It’s actually available, in stock in stores around the world.
That may sound like a low bar to meet, but in reality for some of the hot new trainers this year, availability and initial support is the key limiter of actually buying one. Here, both of those are solved problems.
In any event, both myself and my wife have been riding the Elite Avanti for a number of months now – especially her. She’s used it as her main trainer during her training the past three months, including rides upwards of 3 hours in length on it. So I’ve got a pretty good idea at this point on everything from accuracy to quirks.
Finally, note that Elite sent over this loaner trainer to test, as a media loaner. Once I’m done with things, I’ll get it all boxed up and back to them. As always, I don’t accept advertising from any company I review (and no company gets to see my reviews prior to publishing) – so, if you found this review useful, consider becoming a DCR Supporter, which gets you an ad-free site, plus the behind-the-scenes video series between both myself (and my wife) on everything that happens in the DCR Sports Tech Cave/universe.
The Key Tech Specs:
– Direct drive trainer: This means you remove your rear wheel
– Flywheel: It has a flywheel weight of 4kg/8.8lbs
– Cassette: Currently you install your own cassette, compatible with 8-13 speed cassettes (some cassette types will require adapter), as well as shortly Zwift Cog
– Sound: Essentially silent. Only the sound of your drivetrain is heard
– Handle: Yes, and cleverly wrapped in orange bar tape
– Flexible Feet for Motion/Sway: Yes, 4.5° lateral sway
– Protocol Compatibility: ANT+ FE-C, ANT+ Power, Bluetooth Smart Trainer Control, Bluetooth Smart Power (everything you need), plus Direct Connect WiFi.
– WiFi: Yes, built-in, Direct Connect to all apps via WiFi
– Wired Ethernet: With Elite’s Gateway accessory adapter
– Zwift Race Mode: Yes, 10 Hz
– Heart Rate & Cadence Bridging: Can rebroadcast your heart rate sensor within a single channel, ideal for Apple TV Zwift users (who are Bluetooth channel limited)
– App Compatibility: Anything and everything
– Skewer Compatibility: All the skewers and adapters you could ask for: Road 130mm, 135mm, 142x12mm, 148x12mm
– RIZER Compatible: Yes
– Max Incline: 18% simulated grade
– Max Wattage: 2,100 watts resistance (2,100w at 40KPH, 920w @ 20KPH)
– Stated Accuracy: < +/1.0%, Automatic Calibration
– Power Cable Required: Yes, power block compatible with 100-240v
– Unique Party Trick: Has secret storage compartment
– Pricing: $849USD, €749
In terms of availability, the Elite Avanti has been available for a few months now in most regions. It also has compatibility with the announced but not yet shipping Elite Square. Likewise, it’s also compatible with the Elite Rizer gradient simulator.
Unboxing & Setup:
The Elite Avanti comes fully assembled, which is awesome. Though, fully assembled does not include adding the cassette, which we’ll need to do. Of course, at some point they’ll probably start offering it with the Zwift Cog, which would undoubtedly come pre-assembled (they’re currently slated to release a firmware update for Zwift Cog in late March). Of course, the benefit to using a mechanical/standard cassette, as I’ll show here, is that it’s compatible with all apps, not just Zwift.
In any event, here’s what’s inside the box once you take it out:
You’ve essentially got five buckets of stuff:
1) The Elite Avanti trainer
2) Some paper stuffs
3) The power adapter
4) The front wheel block
5) The axle adapters (located inside the trainer drawer)
There are also the two spacers included, depending on which exact cassette you’ll put on (e.g., a 10sp cassette needs a spacer, but an 11sp doesn’t need one).
At the back of the trainer is a small drawer, which contains all of your axle adapters. I love this concept, as otherwise, when you get a new bike some years from now, you have to figure out where on earth you put that little baggy of adapters. Every trainer company on the planet should do this; it’s great.
Now, as noted, it doesn’t come with a cassette pre-installed. I’m honestly a bit surprised, at this price point, that the Elite Avanti doesn’t, since other trainers in the sub-$500 ballpark do. Albeit, most of those other trainers are made in Asia (rather than Italy), which has a lower manufacturing cost. Give and take, I suppose.
In my case, I bought a 12-speed cassette, since the majority of bikes I’m putting on it are 12-speed:
You needn’t buy some super fancy high-end cassette for a smart trainer, it just doesn’t matter. And while it’s slightly more ideal to buy a Shimano cassette if using a Shimano drivetrain, and a SRAM if using SRAM, again, practically speaking; it’s not the end of the world. In this case I bought the budget-friendly Shimano 105 series 12-speed cassette, yet I’m using it with both a DuraAce equipped Shimano 12sp bike (my wife’s TT bike), and my road/tri bikes (which are SRAM 12-speed RED & FORCE equipped).
Putting on the cassette is relatively easy using a cassette tool, which I’ve linked to at the end of the review. Typically speaking, these tools will cost about $10-$20 for basic ones, which is perfectly fine. A minute or two later, you’ll have your cassette installed.
Next, you’ll need to put the axle adapters in for your bike. For example, on a thru-axle bike, you’ll use different ones than a quick-release skewer type.
After that, you’ll need to plug in the trainer. Here’s a look at the power adapter, in case yours gets mixed up in the wrong crowd in a drawer, you can figure out which is which:
On the back you’ll see two ports, one is for power, and the other telephone-looking port is for Elite’s Gateway module, which lets you connect an ethernet cable to the trainer (the cable has to go to the accessory adapter, not directly into the trainer).
You’ll notice there are some status lights on the side of the trainer, indicating various connectivity and status states:
With that, we’re ready to get the bike on, and call it done!
Daily Riding Basics:
With the trainer ‘assembled’, it’s time to throw your bike on. Given it’s a direct drive trainer, that of course requires removing your wheel and mounting the chain to the cassette on the trainer. In most cases, it won’t matter which gear you’re in, since it’ll align to the same gear. However, if you’re running a Zwift Cog on it, then you may want to first shift the rear derailleur into the middle of the cassette, since that’ll make life a bit easier for alignment later.
But for now, we just get it on the regular cassette and we’re pretty much good to go. Above is me, below is my wife and her many sessions on it.
You can also throw down the front wheel block that’s included, which helps keep your wheel from rotating left/right all over the place. It also levels the bike to the appropriate height. You don’t have to use such a block, plenty of people don’t, but I prefer using them as I find it annoying when the front wheel wobbles everywhere.
Next, we’ll want to crack open the Elite Upgrado app to check for any firmware updates for the trainer. In a second, we’ll connect it to WiFi, so it’ll just do it behind the scenes each night automatically. But here in the Upgrado app we can see the firmware is updated and good to go.
So instead, let’s open up the Elite myETraining app. I do feel like this app is showing its age at this point, especially some of the configuration bits. It really feels like maybe the trainer-specific configuration bits (configuring WiFi & doing a calibration) could really live more in the Upgrado app (and call it Elite Traino or something). I don’t know, but I do know myETraining feels dated.
In any event, within this app, we’re going to configure the WiFI. That has two benefits. First, apps like Zwift can use WiFi instead, which offers faster refresh rates of the sensor (called ‘Race Mode’) as well as sidesteps any Bluetooth/ANT+ connectivity issues. And then secondarily, it means that it’ll check each night for firmware updates, and automatically apply them.
Connecting took just a second, and I was good to go.
In addition, the app also lets you do heart rate sensor and cadence sensor bridging. This means you can pair your heart rate sensor (ANT+ or Bluetooth Smart), and it’ll pipe that data in over a single Bluetooth channel to trainer apps (or, via WiFi). The reason you’d care about that is if you’re running Zwift/etc on Apple TV, because Apple TV is limited to two Bluetooth connections (plus the remote). So a traditional setup of: trainer + heart rate + steering/controls would be more than the 2-connection limit. Whereas if you use the bridging option, the heart rate funnels in under the trainer connection.
Finally, you can also do a calibration spin-down in here as well. Though Elite does automatic calibration behind the scenes on the Avanti, so this isn’t really necessary. I will note I had some problems with both Zwift and the Elite app in doing manual spin-downs, where it would just fail. That didn’t seem to impact accuracy, as it was otherwise just fine. But I do want to note it occurred repeatedly.
In fact, as you’ll see in my accuracy section, it’s pretty impressive how well this automatic calibration works (which is aimed at dealing with temperature shifts). In my case, the Avanti has been outside the vast majority of the last 3 months (under cover, but open air), and thus the temperature on a daily basis ranges from roughly 4°C-21°C/40°F-70°F this time of year, and my wife could do a session at 1PM (hotter temps), and I do a session that night at 10PM (cooler temps), and it’s had zero problems being spot-on.
In any event, with all that sorted, let’s crack open an application, Zwift (though, all act the same way in this respect), and get things paired up. You’ll see the Elite Avanti shown as both a ‘power source’ and ‘resistance’ trainer. The power source is simply to read power data, while the ‘Resistance’ piece is to actually control the trainer and tell it what to do. You want both.
Likewise, you’ll also want to ensure ‘Cadence’ is selected, and, if you’ve got heart rate bridging enabled, then you can even see your heart rate data via the Elite Avanti there too.
Note that depending on what type of device you use, you’ll basically have three options:
– Bluetooth Smart
– ANT+
– WiFi (aka DirCon aka Direct Connect)
On Apple TV, you’ll see both WiFi & Bluetooth Smart. Whereas on a laptop with an ANT+ stick, you’ll see ANT+ & Bluetooth Smart. If you haven’t configured WiFi, then you’ll just see the Bluetooth Smart on most devices (unless you have an ANT+ stick). It’s always transmitting concurrently on all three.
Generally speaking, I’ll be pairing over WiFi, if that’s an option on a trainer. It reduces the chances of any dropouts, and more importantly, increases the frequency/update rate of the trainer data to Zwift.
Now given the Elite Avanti is a smart trainer, it’ll change resistance automatically in a few different ways, primarily driven by different applications/methods. But most of this all boils down to two core methods:
ERG Mode: Setting a specific power level – i.e., 210w. In this mode, no matter what gearing you use, the trainer will simply stay at 210w (or whatever you set it to).
Simulation (SIM) Mode: Simulating a specific outdoor grade – i.e., 12% incline. In this mode, it’s just like outdoors in that you can change your gearing to make it easier or harder. Wattage is not hard-set, only incline levels.
In the case of simulation (aka slope) mode, the Elite Avanti can simulate from 0% to 18% incline – a touch bit higher than the Wahoo KICKR CORE or JetBlack Victory. While other higher-end trainers can simulate above 20% these days, I continue to question how many people actually want to ride such a gradient. When I’m outside doing any road rides with more than about 12% gradient, it just sucks – let alone 14%, 16%, and more. But a 24% incline? There’s just no reason I want to relive that scenario voluntarily indoors.
Speaking of which, by default, in most apps, including Zwift, you’ll also see the ‘Trainer Difficulty’ setting. Note that by default Zwift will be set for 50% trainer difficulty level. This changes how the game simulates gradient. To understand what this means, assume you’re coming up on a 10% gradient climb, it’ll actually only feel like a 5% climb (if set for 50% trainer difficulty). This won’t impact your in-game speed (since that’s based on wattage), but does impact how the climb feels to your legs, and which specific gearing you’ll use.
I set this as 100%, despite how much steep inclines suck. Because just as in real life, those steep inclines are part of the journey, so we might as well do the same indoors. That’s especially notable if you’re training indoors for some outdoor adventure in the mountains.
With all that set, we’ll pick a route and start riding. The trainer will automatically increase the resistance up/down accordingly, based on what’s on the route. If the screen says an 8% climb, then you’ll feel 8%:
Now interestingly (or, stupidly), the route last night I did had 25-30% grades in it. So, what happens then, given the Avanti only supports up to 18%? Well, essentially the trainer gives it everything it’s got, but it’s gonna struggle (just as you will). In my case, I could audibly hear the trainer struggling under the load, and about 15 minutes into this stupidity, I briefly smelled a bit of a burning smell. But, it was otherwise fine. I’ve never really done these sorts of 26%+ grades for sustained periods in my tests/reviews before, because frankly, virtually nobody cares to ride such things frequently.
Still, it didn’t impact accuracy of the data, and the trainer kept chugging. Note that the limit in these scenarios is really the super-low speed operation of the flywheel, rather than the power you’re outputting. As you can see, the 334w is well below the max power of the trainer, but that max power is typically stated at a value of 40KPH (versus the 5KPH I’m doing here).
Now, switching topics, we’ve got a structured workout (called ERG mode), because in this scenario, it’s following the wattages prescribed in that structured workout, rather than the inclines. The game/app will do the backend math to figure out how fast you’ll go up the hills in that route, but you won’t feel those hills. You’ll only feel the pain prescribed in that structured workout.
Responsiveness across both is fairly good. You won’t likely notice any meaningful difference in responsiveness between an Elite Avanti and other trainers out on the market, for simulation mode (following the gradient), however, you may notice a slight difference in huge jumps in ERG mode (structured workouts), due to the way the Elite internal resistance motor works. An example of a huge jump would be 150w to 800w. Whereas for more regular 30×30 resistance jumps (e.g. 150w to 500w), the duration is perfectly fine. More on this in the accuracy section.
In terms of overall road-feel inertial replication, it’s in line with other trainers in the mid-range ballpark. Meaning, it feels roughly the same as a Wahoo KICKR CORE or JetBlack Victory. Though, having been riding the (more expensive) Elite Direto XR back and forth with the Elite Avanti, it’s clear there’s much more inertial flywheel replication with the heavier Direto XR flywheel. But the thing is, you only notice that when you directly go back and forth between the trainers. Else, you’ll probably never know what you’re missing (roughly 25% heavier flywheel).
Lastly, as far as noise goes, you can hear it in the video, but it’s basically the non-existent norm here. It’ll depend on how clean your bike’s drivetrain is, as well as whether you’re using a regular mechanical cassette or a Zwift Cog (and more specifically, whether that chain was designed for that specific cassette/cog). Either way, your fans will be far louder than the bike. Additionally, indoor smart trainer noise is purely tied to the speed of the drivetrain, not the power output. In ERG mode, for example, you can shift into an easier gear, which both decreases any noises as well as increases resistance control for apps (the slower the flywheel speed, the more control the trainer has over power stability, sorta like driving a car).
App/Connectivity Compatibility:
The Elite Avanti is fully compatible with all of the smart trainer industry standards used today across ANT+, Bluetooth Smart, and WiFI. This is to say that you can use this smart trainer with anything and everything app-wise, and not have to think about it.
Now, that’s of course using a normal cassette (of any speed). Down the road when they start offering a Zwift Cog+Click version, while the trainer will remain 100% compatible with 3rd party apps, once you have the Zwift Cog installed, you can only shift within Zwift (but can do structured ERG workouts in other 3rd party apps like TrainerRoad). Just wanted to point that out.
In any event, setting that aside, the Elite Avanti supports all the following technical standards:
ANT+ FE-C Control: This is for controlling the trainer via ANT+ from apps and head units, and includes power & cadence data. Read tons about it here.
ANT+ Power Meter Profile: This broadcasts as a standard ANT+ power meter, with cadence and speed data baked in.
Bluetooth Smart FTMS: This is the industry standard for apps controlling the trainer via Bluetooth Smart, and includes ANT+ power and cadence baked in.
Bluetooth Smart Power Meter Profile: This broadcasts as a standard Bluetooth Smart power meter, with cadence and speed data baked in.
Wireless (WiFi) Direct Connect: This uses WiFi built-in, to apps on the same WiFi network, this includes power/speed/cadence data, along with trainer control
In addition to all of the above, Elite supports heart rate & cadence bridging (as covered in the earlier section), which means that you can bridge external heart rate sensors/straps and cadence sensors into the channels listed above, helping you on Apple TV due to the 2-concurrent connections limit.
Now, over the last 3-4 months I’ve tested the Elite Avanti with numerous platforms including Zwift, TrainerRoad, IndieVelo, and FulGaz. I’ve had no issues with the Avanti in any of them. Here’s TrainerRoad:
And here’s Zwift:
In addition, Elite supports high-frequency data update rates on the Avanti, more commonly known as ‘Race Mode’. This mode updates at 10hz (10 times a second). You’ll see this in-game by just how fast the power numbers change, compared to the once-per-second change you’d see in traditional trainers without race mode. This is only available when connected via WiFi, or, their ethernet gateway device (accessory you plug in the back), and you’ll need to go into the configuration app and toggle ‘Fast Track’ to enabled (just once).
Lastly, at the time of this writing, the Elite Avanti does not yet support the Zwift Ride frame, however, once Elite releases the firmware update for the Elite Avanti (due in late March 2025), then when used with a Zwift Cog, the Elite Avanti will be fully compatible with the Zwift Ride. But I just wanted to clarify that up-front, simply in case folks were planning on adding that down the road. The way the Zwift Ride works, is that all trainers that are compatible with Zwift Cog/Click, it’ll work with Zwift Ride (which Elite & Zwift have already announced said planned update).
And of course, it’ll fully support the Elite Square, once that starts shipping, which sounds like it’s slated for next month. And unlike the Zwift Ride, the Elite Square is also compatible with the Elite Rizer.
Power Accuracy:
As always, a trainer is largely only as good as the power data coming from it. In Elite’s case, they’ve largely been using their same power sensor technology in all their trainers over the years, which is pretty reliable. The thing is, every time trainer companies change flywheel or other internal mechanical bits within a trainer, it’s kinda like starting over (and this is equally, if not more true, with Wahoo/Tacx/Elite). Thus, I treat accuracy testing the same and start with a fresh look at it each time.
In any event, I’ve been testing the Elite Avanti for months now, in basically three core setups:
1) My road bike: Configured with Quarq RED (road 2X), and Favero Assioma Duo Shi & Favero MX2 Pro power meter pedals (depending on day)
2) My triathlon bike: Configured with Quarq Force (road/aero 1X), and Garmin RS200 power meter pedals
3) My wife’s triathlon bike: Configured with Garmin RK200 power meter pedals
Rides have included all arrangement of both structured and unstructured workouts, upwards of 3 hours in the case of my wife.
We’ve been rotating through these various setups, using both ANT+, Bluetooth, and WiFi recording options, to validate across all of them. I’ll start out by noting I’m not seeing any differences between these protocols in testing (something that’s not always true of other companies), so everything appears good at the protocol layer. Instead, let’s dive into the actual accuracy and responsiveness components.
First, let’s start with a structured workout, these were 3 minute interval repeats at ~360w. I had pedaled the trainer for 2-3 minutes prior and calibrated the power meters and things looked happy, so, off I went. Here’s that data set:
As you can see, there were a few minor connectivity issues/drops between the SRAM Force power meter & the Garmin Instinct 3. I don’t know which one was at fault. I had moved the trainers/bikes around to an entirely new spot the day prior, and may have some interference in that area I need to troubleshoot. Doesn’t matter in the context of accuracy here (especially for Avanti, since I’m using WiFi in this set), just mentioning it for completeness.
In any case, you’ll see that in general all three units are within a 5-7w spread. Once you add up the accuracy claims of each unit, that’s about what I’d expect. Ideally the pedals would have been highest, and then the Quarq/SRAM just slightly below that, and Elite Avanti a few watts below that (due to drivetrain losses), but the real world rarely lines up so perfectly.
In terms of cadence, everything looked spot-on there as well:
Ok, switching to another structured workout from a few days prior, this one is a relatively steady-looking workout, though in reality each 3-4 minutes it drops power just slightly, and then you get a 10-second break and it begins again. You can see here the ‘settling’ of the power meter pedals in that first 10 minutes (after a fresh install on this bike), and more notably, the fact that the crank length was set incorrectly on this set, causing the slight offset. Still, I figured I’d include it for fun, since it shows good stability once past the warm-up. The data:
The mean-max graph is funny, at first glance you might think it’s got a bit of an offset, until you realize that offset is only 1.5w! The scale here is super important. Crazy!
Finally on the structured training front, let’s take a look at my favorite 30×30 trainer test that I do with all trainers. This test is really for two different reasons. The first/primary reason is to test responsiveness: How long it takes to go from ~150w to ~450w. That’s a good benchmark gap/change that you can use for most ERG mode sessions. The goal here is that such a change takes about 2-3 seconds. Any shorter, and it’s actually like hitting a wall, and any longer and you start to cut into micro-interval scenarios.
The blue block is showing what it’s programmed for, and the yellow line is showing what it actually did. The other key part of this is avoiding an overshooting scenario (when it jumps up).
However, a major contributor to that is gearing (slower flywheels gears, typically easiest gearing, is always better in ERG mode). In other words, put it in the small ring in the front, and mid-way or so up the cassette in the back. In this test above, I started mid-way, and then worked my way up to the easiest/smallest gear in the back. You can see the last few intervals how there is few little overshooting.
In any case, here you can see on an earlier interval, that that it took 3 seconds to get to the set point and stabilize (2:03, and each interval starts on the minute exactly).
And again later, also three seconds. So, good. I could see maybe a smidge better might be preferable for some (2 seconds), but really, this is perfectly fine.
Meanwhile, from an accuracy standpoint on this set, the unit is spot-on with the SRAM/Quarq FORCE power meter. Ironically though, the Garmin Rally seemed to have entirely crapped itself on this ride. Note, I always do a short warm-up before, followed by a calibration. This had every opportunity to be correct. Also of note, I did a SIM mode session directly following this, and it was flawless there. Go figure.
Speaking of SIM mode, switching over to regular SIM mode (simulation mode, where the gradient changes automatically based on the app’s terrain), we’ve got my favorite Titan’s Groove loop in Zwift. This is by far one of the best routes to test trainers on, due to the variety of terrain. You’ve got some flat sections that are great for getting into some fast gears (to validate higher-speeds), and then you’ve got some hills to test responsiveness.
Here’s those results (I had to stop for a second in there to sort something out unrelated). You can see that the Rally’s were a bit low for the second half here. I’m not entirely sure why. Otherwise, Quarq/SRAM & Avanti were two happy campers together.
Here’s there successive sprints (going from lazy to somewhat legit), with that 3rd one at 922w. Notably the power here isn’t smoothed, so having two units show 915/922w concurrently at the peak is actually pretty impressive. You’ll see Rally is reading lower there. Getting peak 1-second power from two or more units to perfectly align is very challenging, due to transmission and recording rate frequencies.
If you were to apply a smoothing factor, you can see just how spot-on close the Elite & Quarq units are.
Next, we’ve got another sim mode ride. This one consisted of first being in one of the pace groups for about 30 minutes (which introduces it’s own variables of just constant surges), and then after that I did a climb with 25% grades.
As you can see, things were amazing here for all units in that first 30 minutes, including a few solid sprints. No problems.
Then, I decided to do a climb, a rather steep one in fact, that included numerous 20-25% gardient sessions. This actually puts it beyond the capabilities of the trainer, however, it still did just fine. You could audibly hear it struggling though, a slight grinding of sorts. And at one point about 15 minutes into things, I smelled a wee bit of a burning smell for a few seconds. But, nothing caught fire.
Afterwards, on the descent, it’s a great place to test high-flywheel speeds, where in-game it showed a downhill speed of 100KPH. Of course, from a technical standpoint, we’re mostly looking at flywheel speed – which is an entirely different beast. Nonetheless, you can see these spikes I’m doing, pushing as hard I can with a -20 to -25% gradient, and so the flywheel is spinning super fast, yet accuracy remains solid.
Meanwhile, cadence is also good as well:
Ultimately, I’m not seeing anything of concern here. In fact, what’s notable is actually the automatic calibration pieces. As noted earlier in the review, this trainer has largely lived outside the entire time, and my trainer rides have been at all hours of the day/night, with massive swings in temperature from one ride to the next. And I only calibrated the trainer…once. That’s it. Good job.
(Note: All of the charts in these accuracy sections were created using the DCR Analyzer tool. It allows you to compare power meters/trainers, heart rate, cadence, speed/pace, GPS tracks, and plenty more. You can use it as well, more details here.)
Wrap-Up:
The Elite Avanti is a solid trainer that bridges the price divide of the higher end units, offering virtually all of the software functionality found on those trainers (and arguably, more software functionality than some companies). Overall ride feel is good, and accuracy has been solid. Coming next month you’ll be able to use the Zwift Cog/Click with it if you want. And the little touches of having the built-in drawer for extra axle adapters is awesome. Again, it’s a well rounded offering.
The only real issue with this trainer is of course, the price point. At $849/749EUR, it’s substantially more than the JetBlack Victory, which has relatively similar specs. Of course, Elite’s lucky moment here is the Victory is near-impossible to buy right now, with continued months-long and shifting waiting lists, and some users are running up against some initial teething/support issues (though, I don’t think that’s widespread relative to the volumes JetBlack is shipping). And equally, I don’t foresee JetBlack being able to ship anywhere near the demand volumes. Thus, Elite has an opportunity to deliver people with a very solid trainer today, regardless of that pricing. Still, I’d like to see Elite at least include a cassette with the trainer for that price (be it Zwift Cog or mechanical), given their competitors are at lower price points.
Of course, over longer-term time I expect price to adjust relative to the competition (it’ll have to), but for now, if you’re looking for a trainer that’s actually available, and just as important, very solid. Neither myself nor my wife had any real issues with it during our time, it worked exactly as advertised. Which in an age where companies often ship half-baked products, sometimes just doing what the box says, is what matters.
With that – thanks for reading!
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